Yup, we are freakin excited. You wanna know why? I could give you hundreds of reasons. The squad is complete, the boat is in top form, the water is perfect, waves are getting better and and and… As I told you hundreds of reasons. And guess what? The season has only just begun. If you haven’t put on your boardshorts yet something went wrong. Or you’re just overworked. Well we have the medicine for you, SURFING!!!!
Another solid week went by as we surfed up to head high Amarillo with a bunch of beginners. Seeing beginners surfing is always a big inspiration for me. The stoke they feel when they ride their first ârealâ wave. Priceless. You see their smile and feel their happiness from miles away. My first real wave is 5 years ago now. Summer day in Biarritz, France. We surfed Cotes des Basques this day, a long beginner friendly wave. After days of distress at Grand Plage, my friends took me to this wave saying it’s gonna be my day. First wave, easy pop up, rode it to the beach. Looked like shit but I felt like Kelly Slater. 25Th of April 2011 will ever be reminded as the day I learned what stoke is. And the day I realized it will never let me go. Never.
Dreamin of your first wave now? Want the feeling again? Join us now, we all know you can’t wait to get into warm water again. Barrels waitin for you, Boardshort time Baby!
written by paul